Tour de Coast Stage 11

This is an episode of the tour that you can play along with the home version of the game. Just get out your kids Brio train set and have fun. You need lots of curvy track, all your bridges, a tunnel and blocks to make lots of hills for the track. Designate one side of the room Washington, put lots of mullets and pick up trucks here. And the other side call Oregon and put lots of hobbits and earth toned people in Birkenstocks. Put tunnels and hills on both side of the room and in the middle put three different bridges together. Use lots of track to make it real long. This will be the Columbia River. If you build this out side turn the sprinkler on every 15 minutes for about 10 minutes and soak everything. Don’t ever let it get dry. Now designate two cars as bikes stating them on the Washington side. Move them very slowly. Behind them put about a dozen truck cars. Call them logging trucks. Move them very fast. Obviously they will catch up to the bikes. When they do, knock the bikes off the road to let the logging trucks pass. See if you can get the bike through the tunnel. Hard huh? When you build the bridge put three bridges together, a draw bridge, flat bridge, and suspension bridge to make one long bridge. Try too get the bikes across the bridge without the logging trucks forcing them into the water. Don’t forget the sprinkler! Every 15 min. On the Oregon side make the tunnel very long and go up hill. This will cause the bikes to go real slow . Having fun? We are.


Logging truck. Not much shoulder.I can get a nice smell of the fresh bark when it passes.


Entering the tunnel in Washington.


Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel in Washington


The Columbia River. Bridge is 4 miles long.


First Part of Bridge


Second section of Bridge


Third section of Bridge


Coming out of the tunnel alive in Oregon!


Don't get too close to the edge.
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Nature Talk

Here we are on the beach in south west Washington where I observed a skinny whale. Actually it was so skinny it was just bones. I figured it was probably dead because I kicked it and nothing happened.

Karen the Whale on Long Beach, Wash.

This is what probably happened. The whale was swimming along happily living on the Atkins diet, all the krill and fried calamari it could eat, when it came across a book that someone had tossed called The South Beach Diet. Most likely someone on a cruise ship who was confronted with all the buffets and nothing to do but eat and said “Throw out that book honey, you look fine fat, it’s time to eat again.”. Now we know whales aren’t very smart because they don’t hang out in schools the way fish do. They hang out in pods which are probably like gangs. So this stupid whale sees this book and thinks “Cool, I can be cool”. Now any fish would know that any beach diet is fatal, but this poor whale that we’ll call Karen didn’t realize until it was too late. So now Karen the whale is residing permanently on the beach looking cool and skinny. So please don’t throw your beach diet books in trash that ends up in the ocean, because every year you read about some group of teenage whales that winds up on the beach for no apparent reason and starves to death. They usually try to blame it on the Navy’s Radio broadcast, but the radio has been around for years with no problem. It’s only since we’ve had this proliferation of beach diet books that whales have been coming ashore. This has been another episode of Nature Mysteries solved by Dave.
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Bremerton to South Bend

We had one day of all rain but the others were sun with some showers. All the rides have been great and the people have been very friendly. Here are some shots.


Had a nice stay here in Bremerton


Carrier graveyard, Bremerton 61,62,64


Hey Ed, look at those wierd bikes!


Sorry I got both hands on the wheel.



Hands across America


Mmmmm. escargot for lunch


Logging trucks have right of way


Hold On!


Pacific County Courthouse, South Bend, "Oyster Capital of the World"


Inside dome of 1910 court house in South Bend.



Guess we're getting near the coast.


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Steamed Crab and fresh Oysters. A perfect end to a great day of cycling.

A long and Wet/Windy Road

There are no pictures with this post because it rained on us from 8:30 a.m. when we began the ride in Shelton until 3:30 p.m. when we arrived in Aberdeen. We discovered many things on this leg of the trip.

One was the ongoing debate between highway and byway riding. Highway riding is noisy with lots of traffic whizzing by, but the shoulders are wide and generous. Byway riding is mostly quieter, but it there are lousy narrow shoulders and trucks and cars go whizzing by even though less frequently. Dave and I have been debating this back and forth.

Despite that we road on highway 101, 108, 8 and 12 in the course of the day for a 48 mile total. We arrived soaked in Aberdeen and found a really great hotel with a hot tub and a spacious room and, best of all, within walking distance of a Wal-Mart. Yes I said Wal-Mart. We have become fans because they have everything you could possibly need for the things we are doing.

Another debate between Dave and I about hills. I appreciate them, just a less frequently than he does. With all the gear we have discovered that hills are way more a challenge than we would have thought. Many have required us to push the bikes up them. Dave likes walking with the bike cause it exercises different muscles. I will ride a bit, catch my breath, ride some more, etc. But we make it.

Aberdeen is a Lumber and Fishing town, a very gritty crossroads. Nevertheless the people were great, including the people at the Ky Fry Chi who invited us to spend the night at the mission with them. It has clean beds. We politely declined, but enjoyed the fellowship of the road with them

Fearsome Road Crocodile

This is the feared NW road crocodile. It did not get us, but we were more afeared of the dogs in the house and across the street as we cruised through this town a few days ago in Washington.

Beers and WiFi in Shelton

They had just installed WiFi at the A&W in the small town of Shelton, so I sat down for some internet and beers to update the blog. The beers were a little sweet but the WiFi worked fine and I got to listen to the country western tunes for a few hours.


I want three burgers with fries please
a chocolate malt and supersize it.


The top songs for the night were:

Thank God And Greyhound She's Gone.
My Wife Ran Off With My Best Friend, And I Sure Do Miss Him.
My Every Day Silver Is Plastic.
I Still Miss You, Baby, But My Aim's Gettin' Better.
I Bought the Shoes that Just Walked Out on Me.
Her Teeth Was Stained, But Her Heart Was Pure.
Am I Double Parked by the Curbstone of Your Heart?
Are You Drinkin With Me Jesus?
She Got The Gold Mine And I Got The Shaft.
My Phone Ain't Been Ringing, so I Guess it Wasn't You.
Liked You Better Before I Knew You So Well.
And that old favorite:
I'm So Miserable Without You, It's Like Having You Here.

I love country music. It's so philosophical and so ... up beat. Yea......up beat.

It's amazing how well they sing without all their teeth.
If your a logging trucker I'm just kidding, really.

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Beautiful Farm Country Between Stops.

Meeting friends on the way.

Everyone is so friendly.

Riding through the country

Crosssing the Hood Canal floating bridge.


The nice thing about all this exercise is that we can eat whatever we want.Well almost.

Oh Boy! Looks like opossum stew again tonight
thanks to Wheels on Meals.


Hang on

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Port Townsend Wash.

Took small Ferry to mainland after riding from Oak Harbor.

Arrive at St Paul's in Port Townsend. A nice Victorian Village that once thought it would be the Seattle of Wash. One of the locals tells me the unofficial motto of the town is:

"We're all here because We aren't all there"


We stayed here

Mike and Joan when we leave in the morning.

At the PortTownsend P.O.

Lightening the load at P.O.

Leaving Port Townsend

Off To Poulsbo.

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Day 4: Port Townsend to Poulsbo

This was another sporadically wet day through the rolling hills descending from the Olympic Mountains. We road along the Hood Canal, crossing the floating bridge you can see in one of the collages. We rode and rode over hills watching the canal off to the side. Until we reached Poulsbo.

We had been well drenched once again and pulled into a Goodyear Store with a U Haul desk. We spoke to the young man at the desk, asking for a local hotel and he sent us to the one his Mom runs, the Poulsbo Inn. The young ladies at the desk were wonderful. They gave us a nice rate, told us of their magnificent breakfast (biscuits with gravy, waffles!!!!!) So we settled in and then headed back down into town for dinner.

We had another great dinner along the canal and went back to our room to do laundry.

As we walked to the motel we passed a B&B The Murphy House B&B. Dave stopped and asked for their rates and despite the absence of people and the VACANCY sign the guy told Dave there were no rooms. When we returned from dinner we noted that most were empty and the VACANCY sign was still there. Sooooooo when in Poulsbo, stay in the Poulsbo Inn and avoid that B&B.

Poulsbo's other feature is that it called little Norway. As we walked into town for dinner they were closing all the stores, so we asked which restaurant had authentic Norwegian food. Her reply: "Are you kidding? No one wants that anymore!"

The next morning as we left we stopped in at the Nordic Maid and sent some stuff home. This is a lovely little town and a great place to go. We were wet and they got us dry and fed.

Back In The USA

After clearing customs, we head for Whidbey.

Arriving at Deception Pass that takes us to Whidbey Island.

Going across the bridge. Mike rode across but remembering what Ella said, I walked slowly.

Nice coast. Looking towards the Straights I Wanna Puka.

Finally get to rest at the windmill in Oak Harbor after a long ride in the rain.
Tomorrow to Port Townsend.

From St. Paul's to the Hood Canal Floating bridge on the way to Poulsbo.

Day 3: Oak Harbor to Port Townsend

Woke to another blustery day. The lady at the front desk encouraged us to stay another day, but we decided to press on to Port Townsend. First stop though was the Wal-Mart. I bought a $14 pair of shoes to replace both my other pairs. The $14 shoes did just great. The day was a short one, with more hills and cold wind. But we made it to the ferry and took the 30 minute ride to Port Townsend. I was glad to leave ferries behind, they mostly sapped the day because you have to ride to their schedule. There is even an organic supermarket with a `tude!

Port Townsend was spectacular. Town motto: "We're all here because we're not all there." Think of Ocean Beach with no pressure to gentrify cause you can only get anywhere useful by ferry. We stayed at St. Paul's Church in the office of the Priest in Charge, Joan Anthony who is a classmate of ours.

My new friend Nigel Tabor-Hamilton took the ferry over to have dinner with us and we ate at a splendid Thai restaurant. I pondered how, if PT could have good Asian food, SD couldn't? We chatted for awhile and Nigel headed back.

The community choir was practicing in the room where our bikes were parked and so at the end of the rehearsal we went in to get stuff for sleeping and discovered...... more recumbent cyclists!!!! We're everywhere.

Day 2: Ferry Ferry frustrating

Ok, Day One was about hospitality and the formation of the Fellowship of teh Wheel with the fine Anglican Cyclists of Prayer in Vancouver. We got to a motel in Sidney on Vancouver Island after a lovely ferry ride and then a quick hard drenching. We were pleased and amazed that there was no problem at all with taking our bikes to our room.

We took a bus into Victoria realizing that we had to get on a buss back after only an hour is we were going to get a good night's sleep. We went to the Chinatown area, but ate in Vic's English Fish and Chips hous, owned and run by a very nice chinese couple.

Then we hopped on the bus to return. Amazingly there was a couple there who had been on the bus into town with us. So we got talking and lo and behold they too were touring cyclists. So was the driver! So we had a rowdy good time hearing about all their tribulations. They were a few years older than us, and had put in one 140 day once. We were humbled.

Then to bed so that we could get up in the morning and hit the road. Problem was there is only one ferry at 11:30 which would get to Anacortes at 3. This meant a short cycling day. And while the BC ferry had been sumptuous with places to eat, the Anacortes ferry had no food stuff at all. So we ate crackers and other less that auspicious things on the 3 hour ride.

When we arrived at Anacortes the Customs guy almost impounded Dave's turkey bacon (it had the color apparently of hard packed heroin) and then the lesson in frustration and humility as we had to deal with serious steep hills leading away from the ferry and throughout the community as we headed towards Oak Harbor.

We made it, but only by sheer determination. There had been no food on the ferry and none along the route. So we pulled into Oak Harbor after a driving rain wet, tired and well rumpled.

The lady at the motel was great, got us into a room and gave us a discount at the eatery next door. We had a great, if expensive dinner and then went to bed.

Local Customs

We left Vancouver Island by Ferry and had to go through Canadian and U.S. customs on our bikes.

They happily let us leave.

Bikes on the Ferry with chocks.

Anything to Declare?

What's this brown stuff in a zip-lock bag?

I got busted for an undeclared Banana. Mae West would have been proud. By the way that was just turkey bacon in the zip-lock bag. Sorry.

Canadian Ferryland

We arrived in Vancouver Island on Fri. afternoon and after a night in Victoria talking to other bikers, headed to the U.S. on another ferry. They were just starting the internional curling championships in Victoria and every one was very excited. I guess they take their hair very seriously, eh? I guess that's why all the mullets.

The Crew Welcome Us.

Parking our bikes with the Busses.

The Canadian Gulf Islands

Heading to Victoria

Day 2: Ferry Ferry frustrating

Ok, Day One was about hospitality and the formation of the Fellowship of teh Wheel with the fine Anglican Cyclists of Prayer in Vancouver. We got to a motel in Sidney on Vancouver Island after a lovely ferry ride and then a quick hard drenching. We were pleased and amazed that there was no problem at all with taking our bikes to our room.

We took a bus into Victoria realizing that we had to get on a buss back after only an hour is we were going to get a good night's sleep. We went to the Chinatown area, but ate in Vic's English Fish and Chips hous, owned and run by a very nice chinese couple.

Then we hopped on the bus to return. Amazingly there was a couple there who had been on the bus into town with us. So we got talking and lo and behold they too were touring cyclists. So was the driver! So we had a rowdy good time hearing about all their tribulations. They were a few years older than us, and had put in one 140 day once. We were humbled.

Then to bed so that we could get up in the morning and hit the road. Problem was there is only one ferry at 11:30 which would get to Anacortes at 3. This meant a short cycling day. And while the BC ferry had been sumptuous with places to eat, the Anacortes ferry had no food stuff at all. So we ate crackers and other less that auspicious things on the 3 hour ride.

When we arrived at Anacortes the Customs guy almost impounded Dave's turkey bacon (it had the color apparently of hard packed heroin) and then the lesson in frustration and humility began.

You see one truth is that it is always downhill to the ferry and uphill from it! And we were already past the day's prime. And the road from Anacortes to Oak Harbor was riddled with really dandy hills. Really dandy ones. The cleated shoes nearly ruined me and we spent a goodly bit of time pushing up hills. Very humbling to realize that however much shaps you thought you were in, you weren't. But we will be, eh!

So we slowly made the 24 mile ride to Oak Harbor. But we made it. To the first motel in Oak Harbor with a windmill and all. The lady gave us a great rate and a good room despite how bedraggled we looked. We walked to the restaurant next door and had a fine meal to top off a long ferry ride and a modest bicycle ride with almost no food. Lesson for me was ....always eat.

Holy Fools get Underway

Emilie Smith, picture with Paul and Neale made a point of telling us that all pilgrimages involved pain and effort. That is surely true. But if the truth be told, we had the perfect send off from the wonderful clergy of New Westminster (Vancouver). Whatever might come, the warmth of the greeting we received from Paul, Neale, Emilie and Dean Elliott was truly grace filled. They took in strangers and supported us as we began this adventure.

In many ways the pilgrimage was fulfilled just in making these new friends and building a new set of relationships with cyclers and Anglicans. 1000 thank yous would be too few.

As a bonus the sun was out. We had a splendid ride from the hotel to the Cathedral. Neale and Emilie are urban cycling advocates (Critical Mass type folks) They live on their bikes in the city. Paul commutes every day but is not quite so ummmm energetic in his advocacy. They carried us through all the back routes to the cathedral where we got a blessing inside by Dean Elliott.

We will scan in the liturgy, suffice it to say here that it involved anointing us with sunscreen and the bikes with chain oil, not to mention prayers after the fashion of the Celts.

The on to the ferry..... again we saw the back ways through Vancouver and come huge lovely homes. Finally we reached the ferry and said our goodbyes for now.

God's Glory Revealed on the Way to Vancouver Island

Paul, Neale and Emilie, who got us on our way.

Blessing the bikes and riders.....

Heading South

Sorry I haven't communicated with cyberspace for a few days but I've been working the butterflies out of my stomach and having too much fun.


"What are you doing.eh?"


Assembling bikes in a preschool recess.


The trip out of Vancouver was fantastic and showed right off the bat how you can see a lot more from the pace and level of a bike. Both the people and the city are very biker friendly and for them a bike ride down the coast is a walk in the park.Our P.E.N. pals, Paul, Emily,and Neale made sure we got out of the city by taking us 30mi. through urban,suburban,industrial, and country, all of it beautiful.


Our escorts to get us out of town. Eh?


Riding outside Vancouver through the blueberry fields.

As we left them to go on the ferry to Vancouver Island I was sure I heard them singing softly:

"Came here on a jet plane
Going home by bike again
Don't know if they'll make it home.

They look kind of round
Maybe they'll drop a pound
Then they can cruise on down the coast...."

What a great trio, thanks for the send off. Eh.